‘Delights’, ‘head-scratchers’: mixed report on ambitious Mexican eatery
Tucked away on a bustling side street, El Sombrero Rojo, a newcomer to the city’s vibrant culinary scene, promises an authentic taste of Mexico. But does it deliver on its promise of “a fiesta for the senses?” In a nutshell, it’s a mixed bag.
Upon stepping into the restaurant, one is greeted by a vibrant tableau: exposed brick walls, colorful folk art, and the aroma of simmering spices that promise a culinary adventure. The soundtrack is a lively mix of traditional Mexican tunes, adding to the atmosphere of fiesta. The staff is friendly, enthusiastic, and eager to guide patrons through the extensive menu, which showcases a diverse range of dishes, from classic street food to refined plates.
The menu’s ambition is apparent from the start. “Delights” on offer include an array of delectable appetizers, including the “Elote en Esquites” – grilled corn kernels bathed in a creamy chipotle sauce and sprinkled with cotija cheese – a delightful explosion of sweet and smoky flavors. The “Queso Fundido con Chorizo” – a molten cheese dip laced with savory chorizo – provides a rich, satisfying prelude to the main course. The star of the appetizers, however, is the “Ceviche de Mariscos” – a symphony of fresh seafood bathed in lime juice, cilantro, and red onions, leaving the palate refreshed and wanting more.
However, while the appetizers hit the mark, the main courses presented a mixed bag of “head-scratchers”. The “Tacos al Pastor,” a staple of Mexican street food, were unfortunately bland and dry. While the thinly-sliced pork was tender, the lack of flavorful marinade or toppings resulted in a disappointing experience. The “Mole Poblano,” a rich chocolate and chili sauce, served atop roasted chicken, proved to be an overly sweet and dense affair, masking the chicken’s subtle flavors.
The standout main course was the “Enchiladas Verdes,” a delicate blend of fresh cilantro, serrano peppers, and tender chicken wrapped in corn tortillas. The enchiladas were accompanied by a dollop of crema fresca, adding a touch of creamy tang that balanced the rich green sauce.
Despite the hit-and-miss nature of the main courses, El Sombrero Rojo’s dessert selection offers a satisfying finale. The “Flan de Queso” – a creamy cheese custard bathed in a sweet caramel sauce – provides a velvety, satisfying ending.
El Sombrero Rojo’s ambiance and service, coupled with the dazzling appetizers and the outstanding enchiladas, certainly warrant a return visit. However, the uneven performance of the main courses leaves one wishing for a more consistent culinary experience. While the restaurant delivers on the promise of authenticity in its atmosphere and certain menu items, its ambitious journey towards “a fiesta for the senses” remains incomplete.
With some refinement of the main courses, El Sombrero Rojo could become a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic taste of Mexico. For now, the journey is still in progress, but the potential for greatness is undeniably present.
